In the realm of skincare, few ingredients have garnered as much attention and praise as hyaluronic acid. Celebrated for its remarkable ability to hydrate and plump the skin, this seemingly magical molecule has become a staple in countless beauty routines. Its reputation precedes it, with enthusiasts hailing it as a game-changer in the pursuit of youthful, radiant skin. However, as the hype around hyaluronic acid continues to soar, it begs the question: Is it truly the holy grail it’s made out to be, or is there more to the story beneath the surface? Let’s delve into the science, myths, and realities of hyaluronic acid to uncover whether the fervor surrounding it is justified.
Hyaluronic Acid in the Skin
Naturally present in the skin in the form of high molecular weight, hyaluronic acid plays a pivotal role in maintaining the skin’s hydration and resilience. This powerhouse molecule possesses a unique ability to retain water, holding up to 1000 times its molecular weight. In the dermis, Hyaluronic acid works through its exceptional ability to attract and bind water molecules. This molecule has a hydrophilic (water-attracting) nature due to its structure. In the dermis, it draws in moisture from the surrounding environment and binds it to itself, creating a gel-like substance. This, in turn, contributes to increased hydration levels in the skin. The volumizing effect of hyaluronic acid helps fill spaces between collagen and elastin fibers, promoting a smoother appearance and youthful suppleness. Essentially, it acts as a natural moisturizer, supporting skin hydration and overall health. So, proper hydration from within helps maintain the overall water balance in your body, influencing the moisture content of the skin. When you’re well-hydrated, your body is more likely to provide ample moisture for hyaluronic acid to attract and retain. This can contribute to a plump, well-hydrated complexion through adequate water intake.
Beyond its hydrating prowess, this natural substance aids in the healing process when the skin is injured. By promoting tissue repair and reducing inflammation, hyaluronic acid acts as a supportive ally in ensuring the skin’s overall health. As we explore the realm of skincare, understanding the innate functions of hyaluronic acid sheds light on its significance in nurturing and revitalizing our skin.
Does Topical Hyaluronic Acid Penetrate into the Skin?
Yes, topical hyaluronic acid is generally able to penetrate the skin and be absorbed to some extent. While the molecule is too large to deeply penetrate the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis), it can still provide surface-level hydration and contribute to a smoother appearance by binding water to the skin’s surface. Additionally, some formulations may include different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid to enhance absorption and effectiveness. Keep in mind that the extent of absorption can vary based on the specific formulation and individual skin characteristics.
Different Molecular Weights (size of molecules)
Here’s a simplified table summarizing the general categories of hyaluronic acid used in topical skincare, their corresponding molecular weights, and examples:
| Type | Molecular Weight | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| High Molecular Weight | 1,000 kDa and above | Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hyaluronic Acid (HMW) |
| Medium Molecular Weight | 10 – 1,000 kDa | Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid (MMW) |
| Low Molecular Weight | Below 10 kDa | Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37 |
500 Dalton Rule for Skin Care Penetration
kDa stands for kilodalton. One kilodalton is equal to 1,000 daltons.
It is commonly used to express the molecular weight of large molecules such as proteins, peptides, and certain polymers, including hyaluronic acid.
The 500 Dalton rule is a guideline used in skincare to approximate the molecular size for effective penetration of substances into the skin. The rule suggests that molecules with a molecular weight below 500 daltons are more likely to penetrate the skin barrier and reach deeper layers, potentially exerting their effects.
In the context of skincare ingredients, this rule implies that smaller molecules, such as certain vitamins, peptides, and some acids, may have better skin penetration and bioavailability compared to larger molecules. However, it’s essential to note that skin penetration is influenced by various factors, including the specific properties of the molecule, formulation, and the skin’s condition.
While the 500 Dalton rule provides a general guideline, it’s not an absolute determinant of a substance’s ability to penetrate the skin, and many exceptions exist. Skincare formulations often include various ingredients with different molecular weights to address specific skincare concerns effectively.
Hyaluronic Acid is a HUMECTANT
Humectants are substances that attract and retain moisture. In the context of skincare, humectants are commonly used in formulations to enhance the skin’s hydration by drawing water from the environment or the deeper layers of the skin.
Here’s a general guide on how to use humectants effectively:
- Apply on Damp Skin: Humectants work best when applied to damp or slightly wet skin. After cleansing, leave your skin slightly damp before applying a humectant.
- Layering: Humectants can be layered with other products. Apply them before heavier creams or oils to help lock in moisture.
- Consider Climate: In drier climates, humectants may benefit from additional sealing with an occlusive layer (such as a moisturizer or oil) to prevent moisture loss. In more humid environments, they can be used alone.
- Frequency: Depending on the product, humectants can be used daily or as needed. Follow the specific instructions on the product you’re using.
- Sunscreen: Always use sunscreen during the day, especially when using humectants, as they may increase the skin’s susceptibility to sun damage.
Which Hyaluronic Acid is Good for Me?
Numerous skincare formulations currently incorporate hyaluronic acid; however, it is crucial to focus on the varied molecular weights within them. Opt for serums that encompass diverse molecular weights if you seek a streamlined skincare routine centered on hyaluronic acid, as mentioned earlier.
Jojo’s FAVORITE Hyaluronic Acid Serums
*** Side Note: I wish to express my admiration for GLYCERIN, a humectant boasting a molecular weight of 92 Daltons, surpassing even the penetrative capabilities of Hyaluronic Acid. In my pursuit of skincare excellence, glycerin consistently holds a coveted position among the paramount ingredients I seek… will dive into this in another post.
Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Hyaluronic Acid Lotion
Hada Labo Premium is popular due to its effective hydration, containing multiple types of hyaluronic acid that deeply moisturize the skin.
The formulation includes various forms of HA with different molecular weights.
- Sodium Hyaluronate: A salt form of hyaluronic acid, it has a smaller molecular size, allowing it to penetrate the skin more easily and provide immediate hydration.
- Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid: This form has even smaller molecules, enhancing its ability to deeply penetrate the skin and maintain moisture over time.
- Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate: This derivative has a slightly larger molecular size, forming a protective barrier on the skin’s surface, reducing water loss, and promoting long-lasting hydration.
In addition to its hyaluronic acid formulations, Hada Labo Premium contains other beneficial ingredients:
- Glycerin: A humectant that attracts and retains moisture, helping to keep the skin hydrated.
- Urea: Another hydrating agent that assists in retaining water, promoting soft and supple skin.
- Hydroxyethyl Urea: Similar to urea, it enhances the moisturizing properties of the product.
- Butylene Glycol: Functions as a solvent and humectant, aiding in product absorption and hydration.
- Triethanolamine: Used to adjust the pH of the product, ensuring it remains compatible with the skin’s natural pH.
These ingredients, combined with the hyaluronic acid complexes, contribute to the product’s overall effectiveness in providing intense hydration and maintaining a healthy skin barrier.
It’s also free from fragrances and dyes, making it suitable for various skin types, especially those sensitive to additives. Additionally, its lightweight texture allows for easy absorption, leaving the skin plump and moisturized.
L’Oreal Paris Revitalift Derm Intensives 1.5% Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum
L’Oréal Revitalift Derm Intensives contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid: sodium hyaluronate, glycolic acid, and vitamin C, known for their hydrating and skin-renewing properties. These ingredients can help improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, and promote a more youthful appearance.
In addition to hyaluronic acid, which is known for its excellent hydrating properties, L’Oréal Revitalift Derm Intensives also include ingredients like glycerin, ceramides, and niacinamide. Glycerin helps attract and retain moisture, ceramides support the skin barrier function, and niacinamide (vitamin B3) can enhance hydration and contribute to a healthier skin barrier.
CosRX Hyaluronic Acid Intensive Cream
Cosrx Hyaluronic Acid Intensive Cream is formulated with hyaluronic acid: sodium hyaluronate, which is a potent hydrating ingredient known for its ability to attract and retain moisture in the skin. This cream also typically includes other beneficial ingredients such as glycerin and sunflower seed oil. Glycerin helps to moisturize and soften the skin, while sunflower seed oil provides additional nourishment and helps maintain the skin’s barrier function.
Native Essentials: IIS Hydro Defense Serum
IS is a skin hydration booster serum that supports healthy cell turnover, Collagen + Elastin production and delays dehydration (the first step to skin ageing). Its formula contains: double molecular size plant-based Hyaluronic acid to retain and distribute moisture efficiently; Phytol and Isomalt are powerful, marine-based antioxidant complexes enhanced by moss-derived active ingredients to protect your skin from urban aggressors and water loss; Ectoin, a potent natural stress-protection molecule; Vitamin B8, able to draw and retain moisture and make it available for the skin’s cells; and Glycerin, crazy skin hydrator.
Other Worthy Mentions
***I choose skin care products that don’t have ingredients that could irritate the skin: comedogenic factor=0
Replenix Pure Hydration Hyaluronic Acid Serum
The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Timeless Hyaluronic Acid Matrixyl 3000 Spray
Naturium Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5%
Skin and Permanent Makeup Specialists 